ETHIOPIA
Standing inside a subterranean, 12th-century stone trench in Lalibela, shrouded in a sea of white netela cloths and thick incense smoke at 2 AM, is a sensory experience you will never forget. Ethiopian Orthodox Easter — known locally as Fasika — is one of the most spiritually raw and visually staggering religious events on earth.
But navigating this legendary midnight vigil in Ethiopia’s rock-hewn churches requires serious planning. Because information online is incredibly scarce, logistical mistakes can leave you stranded without a flight, guide, or place to sleep.
Whether you’re an adventure traveller or a country-counter mapping out a bucket list trip, this comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know to experience Fasika in Lalibela safely, respectfully, and independently — including crucial tips on flights, dress codes, and upcoming festival dates.
Upcoming Ethiopian Orthodox (Fasika) Dates
Because Orthodox Easter follows the Julian calendar, the date changes dramatically every year, and it usually doesn’t match Western Easter.
2027: Sunday, May 2
2028: Sunday, April 16
2029: Sunday, April 8
Where to Stay
I stayed at the Honey Land Hotel Lalibela, which was centrally located in town and about a twenty minute walk to the main church, St. George. The rooms were clean, hot water, everyone was wonderful, great food at the restaurant, and a great value.
Guide Recommendation
Honestly at first I didn’t even think about getting a guide since I like to explore freely on my own. However, Mule was highly recommended by Honey Land Hotel, reasonably priced, and spoke good English so I thought it might be good to have someone take me around to all the spots I wanted to photograph and have good insight. He was beyond fantastic and I absolutely loved having him — he knew all the best spots to stand for photography during the ceremonies so I highly recommend him as well. I also noticed no tourist wandered around without a guide. Feel free to mention my name if you reach out to him over Whatsapp (+251935438503).
Good Friday
If you’re looking to maximize your photography time, I highly recommend you fly in on Thursday. That way, you can spend time watching and capturing all the ceremonies at the churches on Friday. The flight on Friday come in midday, which also works if you’re short on time and want to still see some of the ceremonies. You’ll still get to see some of the festivities and there’s one ceremony you shouldn’t miss at 6 PM.
Saturday
The festivities on Friday are incredible, but if you’re looking to explore the churches without the crowds this is the day to do it. Saturday is also market day, so the women are at the vegetable / honey market and the men are at the cattle / goat market. I recommend going to the churches in the morning then visiting the markets midday when all the hustle and bustle is going on.
Saturday evening is when the major Easter festivities begin. Chanting starts at 10 PM, but you can get a great spot from above looking down at the crowds if you arrive at 9:30 PM. When they start lighting the candles, take your shots quickly from above once all the candles are lit, then go down below when the priests circle the church so you can get some great portraits of people up-close with their candles before they go out.
Easter sunday
Continuing from the 10 PM chanting, the actual mass begins at midnight and lasts for two hours, and the celebrations conclude at 4 AM. If you’re interested in getting drone shots of the famous St. George church, I highly recommend going at sunrise at 6 AM since everyone will be sleeping or with family at this time. The flight out on Sunday is a little after noon and I think this is the perfect time to fly out. I’m always worried about seeing everything in an allotted time frame so I hope this is useful.
