How to See the Lowland Gorillas in the DRC

Welcome to the Democratic Republic of the Congo!

There are three places in Africa to see the lowland gorillas: Uganda, Rwanda, and the DRC. Rwanda is the most expensive, while the DRC is the least expensive; most people’s biggest concern is the security of the DRC, so I recommend going with the guide I went with!

HOW TO GET THERE: BURUNDI - DRC BORDER

On the day we were supposed to cross the border to the DRC, there was some political conflict; Rwanda had sent police over to the DRC over the death of someone in Virunga National Park but the locals were unhappy about it, so they shut down the borders. Surprisingly enough, they let us through the next day and we didn't have any issues.

DRC GUIDE

Even though Your Burundi Guide set up all the logistics and guides, we were handed off to a Congolese guide who was fantastic. Really motivated to make change in the DRC and knew how to talk our way out of the random police checkpoints that come up frequently. If you're looking for someone just in the DRC, Justin is amazing! He's based in Bujumbura but does frequent trips in both countries. Whatsapp: +25776119310

COVID / PCR / CUSTOMS

We were planning on using our PCR on arrival at the Bujumbura airport to cross into the DRC, but because of the delay it was no longer valid. There's a white tent on the right as soon as you cross the bridge and you can do an Antigen test for $10. It's really disorganized and the person performing the PCR test wouldn't let us have our results until we paid a bribe. We kept saying we didn't have anything but we were already held up so long the guide paid 3000 Congolese Francs ($1.50). We also had to show our yellow fever cards. The power went out when we were in the head immigration office to get our passports stamped, and even though we had the DRC letter of invitation, they wouldn't let us through til the power came back (2 hours later) because they needed to make sure they had their copy.

GORILLAS: KAHUZI-BIEGA NATIONAL PARK

Due to the incident at Virunga National Park, it was closed so we went to Kahuzi-Biega National Park to visit the lowland gorillas. Permits cost $400, whereas it's around $600 to see them in Uganda and $1500 in Rwanda. It was about a 20 minute trek to see them and we had about an hour with them. The only precaution was that we had to wear masks the whole time to make sure we didn't transmit anything to the gorillas. Really awesome experience getting to be so close to these beautiful creatures!

BUKAVU

We stayed the night in the border town of Bukavu. For our next trip we desperately needed USD, and luckily there's plenty of ATMs that dispense dollars in brand-new crisp $100 notes. EcoBank dispensed the most at $600 at a time and didn't charge a fee.

Everything You Need to Know about Burundi

Welcome to Burundi!

Located in the heart of Africa, this tiny country really surprised me with its greenery and such warm people!

ARRIVAL / VISA

We wanted to take advantage of the new VOA program that just started a few weeks ago! "Your Burundi Guide" arranged the whole trip and sent us a letter from the hotel we'd be staying at to show on arrival at Bujumbura Airport.

It's a little confusing when you arrive at Bujumbura airport; first thing is to show your negative PCR test before entering the building. Then, go straight ahead to the window in the very middle -- there's a big visa sign above. You give them your passport and they start inputting your info into the system. After that, go to the window to the left for the cashier. You have to pay for the visa ($90 for 30 days, $30 for a 3-day transit) and PCR on arrival ($100). You can pay in USD and they give you change in Burundi Francs. After you receive your receipts, go back to the middle window so they can put your visa in your passport. Then go to the window on the right to show your PCR on arrival receipt and they give you a slip of paper to do your PCR. Proceed to the next window to get your passport stamped, then go to baggage claim to put your bags thru the x-ray machine, and go through a back door next to one of the baggage claim conveyor belts to do your PCR test.

ACTIVITIES

TEA PLANTATION & GISHORA DRUMMERS

The first day we went to a tea plantation near Gitega; I was surprised how green everything was! It was really beautiful. In the afternoon we went to the famous drummers of Gishora, and it did not disappoint. The energy was fantastic and the local village all crowded around to watch.

BUJUMBURA

The second day we did a Bujumbura city tour. My favorite activity of the day was the boat ride on Lake Tanganyika to see the hippos. After that we went to some monuments around the city, but it was fun driving around seeing so many bicyclists and their way of life.

Top Tips to Explore Aswan, Egypt

This is my second time visiting Egypt, so I wanted to explore somewhere new! I only had a few days in between destinations, so Aswan was the perfect place to squeeze in on my travels. Here are my top tips and must-see places in Aswan, Egypt!

Nubian Village

From Aswan you can take a short boat ride over to the Nubian Village. It’s pretty touristy to be honest, but it’s perfect if you’re looking for a day trip away from the city of Aswan and want the perfect Instagram photos.

Abu Simbel

This is another huge draw to Aswan, visiting the ancient ruins of Abu Simbel. If you’re looking for a way to visit without any crowds, all the tour buses leave at the same time in a 4 AM convoy. This is due to the desert road being closed until 5 AM, so you end up at Abu Simbel with mass amounts of people.

Instead of leaving your hotel at 4 AM, I highly recommend leaving at 8 AM to arrive around 11 or 12 PM after all the tour groups leave! Then you’ll be able to enjoy this UNESCO Heritage Site all to yourself.

How to visit Somaliland Solo

Welcome to Somaliland

A de facto sovereign state located on the Horn of Africa, most consider it to be a part of Somalia. Unlike most unrecognized countries, Somaliland is a special case because it is completely independent, stable and functional, and entirely politically isolated. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Somaliland independently or as a solo female traveler!

I went overland from Djibouti to Somaliland on public 4x4 transport independently in December 2021; there was a time you used to need a booked tour with armed guards at all times, even visiting Hargeisa, Somaliland. Around December 2021 I had heard it was possible to do it on your own, but there was such little information out there that one of my gal pals and I attempted to do it on our own. And we did it!

If you want to read more about my trip to Djibouti, check it out here!

SOMALILAND VISA

When we arrived to Djibouti, our guide Moussa took us to the Somaliland consulate to pick up visas. Really easy and straightforward; we left our passports, 1 passport photo, and paid 11,000 DJF. They're only open Monday - Thursdays 9 AM - 1 PM but often times they close early. We came back the next morning at 9 AM and they were ready. Do NOT lose the receipt they give you, they check it at the border and at the police checkpoints along the overland journey.

How to OVERLAND INDEPENDENTLY FROM DJIBOUTI TO SOMALILAND ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Moussa helped arrange our overland trip to Somaliland. It's in a random part of town where all the 4x4s line up across from this khat stand (photo below). We paid 7000 DJF each for the front seat and it leaves at about 4 PM, but you need to make a reservation early in the morning and come back at 2 PM. Moussa said that's the cheapest he's ever seen it for the front seat though, so normally it might be more.

It takes about an hour to drive from Djibouti City to the border, and they only check the PCR on the Djibouti side to exit. After going through Somaliland customs, we had dinner, got sim cards, and exchanged money. We got a Telesom sim card for 400 DJF, which included 0.5 GB of data, plus paid an extra 200 DJF for another 1 GB of data. We exchanged our DJF for both Somaliland Shillings and USD; since inflation is so high we received a huge stack of bills and converted the rest to USD (they accept USD in Somaliland). The exchange rate is really good here compared to Hargeisa, so we exchanged as much as we could. We also wore our headscarves as soon as we crossed since they're much more conservative.

It was a long, bumpy ride to Hargeisa. There were no roads, just tracks in the sand. We stopped every couple hours at random camps on the side of the road where there were latrines, food, and people resting. At 4 AM, everyone got out and laid out mats under the stars. We were confused what was happening, but a woman led us to a hut with mattress pads and blankets on the ground and motioned us to sleep. When the sun rose at 6 AM, we hit the road again and made it to Hargeisa at about 10:30 AM.

what to wear in SOMALILAND

We were pretty exhausted after the overland trip so we took some time to rest and wandered the streets of Hargeisa. I found the money market was really fascinating. As a woman, if you have an abaya, that is preferred, otherwise a headscarf and loose clothing are okay. We wore loose, long clothing and a headscarf but we definitely attracted a lot of attention; people looked at us as if we were naked.

2026 UPDATE | I will admit, this was early on in my extreme travels; now that I’ve visited every country in the Horn of Africa and beyond — just wear an abaya.

where to stay in hargeisa, somaliland

We didn’t have anything booked prior to our trip; we just showed up and asked for a room at the Oriental Hotel for $18/night and had decent wifi, breakfast was included. If you’d rather book something in advance I’ll share a few options to check out.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in Hargeisa

COVID

The only place you can get a PCR done is the General Hospital of Hargeisa. It was $45, and you come back the next morning to pick up the results. Even though our next destinations don't require PCRs, we decided to get one since we've heard that Ethiopian Airlines will still ask for it (even though it doesn't say it on the website). This turned out to be a good move, since every checkpoint in the airport when leaving asked for it.

UPDATE | I visited Somaliland in December 2021 so PCR requirements have changed since then.

Top Places to Visit in Somaliland

BERBERA

Like I mentioned earlier, we visited Somaliland without a guide; the following are tips on how to visit Berbera independently. The best public transportation minibus service is Sahal (bright yellow buses). It was $5 one way to Berbera and took about 4 hours in total. We stayed at Alloore Hotel Berbera ($20 no AC, $30 with AC) and was nice and clean, plus took a taxi to Batalaale Beach for $4. Great for sunset and the ocean was clean and clear.

LAAS GEEL

The next challenge was how to visit Laas Geel on our own without having to book an armed guard. Somaliland is relatively safe these days, and when we went they were transitioning out of needing one at all times.

Laas Geel in Somaliland is an exceptional and exceptionally well-preserved rock art complex dating back between 5,000 and 9,000 years. Located near Hargeisa, its series of brightly painted caves and rock shelters feature vivid depictions of cattle, wild animals, and human figures, offering rare insight into prehistoric pastoral life in the Horn of Africa. The paintings’ vibrant pigments and detailed scenes make Laas Geel one of the most important archaeological and cultural sites in the region, valued for both its artistic quality and historical significance.

We asked the hotel in Berbera how much it would be to arrange transport to Laas Geel and then to Hargeisa. They found a driver for $100 and said he had police connections since technically you need a permit to visit; we thought we were gonna get a random dude in a tiny car, but he seemed to be a formal driver with a military badge in a 4x4 Landcruiser and we didn't have any issues at the police checkpoints. If you go this route, there's obviously a risk and it depends on how well your driver can talk their way through. It took about 2 hours to reach the Las Geels turn-off and we paid $25 each for entry.

Hargeisa CAMEL MARKET

We took a taxi for $4 to the camel market in Hargeisa. The most popular time is 9 AM - noon. People seemed to welcome photos, although we got yelled at because my friend's shirt, although long and loose, had buttons and apparently that's a no-no. Wearing an abaya is probably better. We went at 9 AM and there seemed to be taxis coming and going, but if you go at less popular hours you might need to ask your taxi to wait for you.

Everything You Need to Know about Djibouti

Welcome to Djibouti

Djibouti is a compact country of dramatic contrasts: volcanic landscapes, salt pans, and shimmering coastal waters where whale sharks congregate. Visit the otherworldly Lake Assal, hike the rugged Goda Mountains, and explore the French-colonial heart of Djibouti City. Scuba diving and snorkeling in the Gulf of Tadjoura reveal vibrant coral and abundant marine life. Expect a hot, arid climate, friendly local hospitality, and a low-key travel scene—bring sun protection, plan logistics in advance, and respect local customs for a rewarding, off-the-beaten-path experience.

This small African country is probably one of my favorites to date and will always be a special one! It usually gets a bad rap but if you have the time to really explore this unique country, you will find how special it is.

COVID requirements

Upon arrival at the airport, you must take a PCR for $30. It says they accept credit cards but they don't so bring cash. To depart, even if you don't need a PCR for your next destination you need it to leave Djibouti. You can take one at the hospital for $30, or you can do an express PCR for $60.

UPDATE | I visited Djibouti in December 2021 so PCR requirements have changed since then.

What sim card to get and currency in djibouti

Bought a Telekom sim card for 1000 DJF, then you can buy data for 500 DJF (3 days, 5 GB). The best place to withdraw money is the Bank of Africa in the main square. The fee was 600 DJF, whereas other random Bank of Africa/Saba Africa ATMs charged 1600 DJF. We stayed at CityGuest hotel on our first and last night in Djibouti City and had good wifi and AC for $60. One more thing to note, because of the conflict in Ethiopia, social media is banned in Djibouti. The only VPN that worked was the app "SuperVPN"

WHERE TO STAY in Djibouti

On our first and last night in Djibouti City we stayed at City Guest Hotel. For $60 it was decent and had good wifi and AC — that’s all you can ask for when going to off-the-beaten-path places in Africa, right?

Update: Unfortunately I can no longer find City Guest Hotel online, so here’s an alternative budget friendly option with great reviews.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more options in Djibouti City.

3 day itinerary in djibouti

We did a 3-day trip with a fantastic guide, Moussa. He was very responsive, super fun and friendly, and extremely hospitable. I can't recommend him enough. We compared pricing and trip offers with 8 other tour companies/fixers and Moussa by far had the best package. I know a lot of people aren't a fan of Djibouti, but Moussa made it such an incredible experience that I would love to go back one day!

Moussa Whatsapp: +25377278015

swimming with WHALE SHARKS in djibouti

I'm an avid diver (freediving as well) and have been fortunate to swim with whale sharks in multiple locations around the world, but Djibouti is by far the best I've ever experienced. For predictability, visibility, few number of tourists, sustainable practices, and the amount you see -- it can't be beat.

LAC ASSAL

We arrived in the evening on our first day after the whale sharks and camped nearby in local huts. There was a chef that cooked us a local meal, then we woke up early to float in the lake the next morning.

LAC ABBE

This was a long drive, but it was like being on another planet. We arrived for sunset on our second day, and there was a camp with electricity, nice toilets and showers. On the way back to Djibouti City we stopped at a local village. People were very friendly and welcomed photos.

Overlanding from Djibouti to Somaliland

Once we returned to Djibouti City, our guide Moussa helped us find 4x4 public transport to overland to Hargeisa, Somaliland on our own. If you’d like to read more about how we went from Djibouti to Somaliland overland independently and without a guide, check out my blog post here.

Top Things to do in Bahrain

Bahrain is the third smallest country on the Asian continent, but there’s so much to see!

How to Get Here

You can fly into the capital of Manama, but since I was already in Saudi Arabia I decided to take the land border across to Bahrain! I flew from Jeddah to Dammam, then went to the local bus station and bought a ticket to Manama. The bus leaves twice per day, once in the early morning and again in the evening, so plan your schedule accordingly.

Top Things to Do

Pearl Diving

Bahrain’s pearls are prized as some of the best natural pearls in the world. You can even dive and collect your own! There’s a few companies that offer the trip but if you’re looking for a half day snorkel, I recommend this company.

Royal Camel Farm

Over 500 camels are located right outside of the capital city of Manama, founded by the late sheikh of Bahrain.

Bahrain Fort

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Bahrain Fort dates back to 2300 BC and has hosted Kassites, Greeks, Portuguese, and Persians.

The Best Saudi Arabia Road Trip

SAUDI ARABIA

The light was slowly fading as we pulled up in our vintage Jeep to this wondrous ancient Petra-looking relic. Hegra stood tall in the vast desert; there was nothing around us for miles. And it was exactly what I envisioned when I dreamed of visiting Saudi Arabia one day.

Saudi Arabia only recently opened up to tourism, and it’s a fascinating country to visit! If you’re looking for the best itinerary and road trip guide to Saudi Arabia, this is it!

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Visiting Saudi Arabia is easier than ever with its new e-visa! Check the regulations for your country here, but if you want to apply for the e-visa straight away go to the official website. When you receive your e-visa, make sure you have it printed before your trip, and you’ll go to a separate area where they’ll process the visa. Online it says you can do “visa on arrival,” however when I went there were so many other requirements you needed to provide that it’s much easier to take care of things in advance. I went in October 2021 during the height of the pandemic so things might be different now, but it’s always important to plan well-ahead.

What to Wear

As a woman it’s important to dress conservatively to respect local customs and culture. My friend and I went shopping at a local mall for an abaya, and surprisingly there were a lot of really beautiful options, even dresses with cloaks! Here’s a pin to the local Olaya Mall so you can find what you need!

Coming from western culture it might not be easy to differentiate, so I’m attaching a little graphic below. An abaya is a full-body dress or covering, and it’s always good to have a head scarf on-hand for mosques.

Saudi Arabia road trip itinerary

Now that we’ve gone over the main details, let’s get back to the road trip itinerary!

Riyadh

Even though this isn’t part of the actual road trip itinerary, you should definitely make a visit to Riyadh! I highly recommend visiting the Masmak Fortress and Edge of the World. A week after we went to Edge of the World, there were a few deaths so they had a shut it down and made an “Alternative Edge of the World,” but I believe they opened it back up! Also, be aware: you’ll see all these influencers going to these beautiful locations and you’ll try visiting and everything is “under construction.” So if you visit and everything is closed, don’t be surprised.

Jeddah

From Riyadh we took a flight over to Jeddah and rented a car! Women haven’t been able to drive up until recently, so some rental companies might not rent to a woman. In Jeddah I highly recommend visiting Al-Balad, the historical area of the city before heading out on your road trip!

Medina

The second holiest city in Islam, this is a must on your western Saudi road trip! As a non-Muslim you can can visit Medina, but you cannot enter the mosque area, only observe.

Al Ula

This was probably the highlight of Saudi, visiting Al Ula! Hegra is considered a UNESCO world heritage site, which is a must. I highly recommend doing the vintage Land Rover tour at sunset since you get the whole place to yourself on top of a really awesome experience! The only thing is, there’s two different entrances to the park and you must make a reservation in advance as they book out and you cannot do it the day-of. Yes, it’s pricey, but if you split it between a few people it’s truly a magical experience. Plus to clarify, the price is for your own vintage Land Rover — not per person!

Besides Hegra, I loved visiting Maraya Concert Hall, which holds the Guinness World Record for being the biggest mirrored building in the world.

Ulmuj

I personally did not go here (we were pretty tired and just stopped in Yanbu on the way back to Jeddah), but if you want one more stop on the way check out “the Maldives of Saudi,” which is known for its amazing beaches.

PIN LATER FOR PLANNING!

A Guide to the Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

I stumbled upon a photo randomly of the Hill of Crosses, and knew I had to go there. Lithuania was my final European country on this leg of my travels and I wanted it to be special; something unusual, but picturesque at the same time. It’s actually pretty close to the border of Latvia, so it would’ve been more efficient to come from Riga but I didn’t discover it til afterwards. It’s definitely worth the drive though!

Hill of Crosses is both a Catholic pilgrimage site and symbol of faith and hope. It’s important to be respectful to this site; you may also opt to leave a wooden cross.

A Guide to the Best Saunas in Helsinki

Sauna culture is a major thing in Finland, so I decided to make the most of my visit to Helsinki and visit a few! Here’s a guide to the best (or most interesting) saunas in Helsinki, Finland!

Allas Sea Pool

This sauna has a gorgeous view of the Presidential Palace and Market Square. The warm lap pool and sea water pool were the perfect mix between sauna breaks.

Skywheel Sauna

The world’s only sauna with a ferris wheel! How cool is that!

Burger King Sauna

Yes, you can order your Whopper with a side of steam! But it’s the world’s only Burger King-branded sauna!

Kotiharju Sauna

The last genuine wood-heated traditional public sauna in Helsinki and has been open since 1928!

Saunaboat

A floating sauna in the harbor of Helsinki, where you can jump into the water anytime!

Top Things to do in Tallinn, Estonia

My 90th country, Estonia! Tallinn had a medieval feel to it that I absolutely loved. Here are my top things to do in Tallinn, Estonia!

“The Times We Had” Wall / Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform

This was one of my favorite viewpoints of Old Town Tallinn with the ocean in the background!

Town Hall Square

In the heart of the Old Town you can find a lot of restaurants and colorful architecture!

Tallinn City Walls

Another great view of the city plus a museum, you can also try their local drink, Glogg! Glogg is a hot mulled wine with aromatic spices like cloves and hints of citrus and almond.

Olde Hansa

To sample some Medieval platters or Mead, try this Hanseatic tavern! All the recipes are traditional from the 15th century and their mead is specially prepared.