Everything you need to know about the Pamir Highway, Tajikistan

TAJIKISTAN

The Pamir Highway, also known as the Roof of the World, is a mesmerizing stretch of road that winds through the rugged and remote landscapes of Central Asia. Spanning over 1,200 kilometers, this legendary highway offers adventurers an unparalleled journey through Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, crossing towering mountain passes, ancient trade routes, and fascinating villages along the way. Driving along the Pamir Highway is a thrilling experience, with breathtaking vistas of snowy peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and dramatic gorges. It is not just a road, but a gateway to discover the cultural richness and natural beauty of this enchanting region. Whether you are an intrepid traveler seeking rugged terrains or a thrill-seeker wanting to conquer the highest-altitude highway in the world, the Pamir Highway is an unforgettable adventure that will leave you in awe of the wonders of Central Asia.

HOW TO GET TO DUSHANBE

Most fly into the airport, but I actually went overland via Samarkand, Uzbekistan. I took a Yandex (rideshare app) from the city to the border for about $7 USD, and once I was at the border there was a line of shared taxis that you can take five hours all the way to the capital of Dushanbe for $20 USD.

Entry to Tajikistan

At the time of entry, Tajikistan had just removed the visa requirement for Americans, but I had applied for an e-visa online in advance. The one benefit to doing that is you can check the box for the GBAO permit, which is the approval you need in order to do the full Pamir Highway. If you don’t apply for the evisa in advance, your guide for the Pamir Highway should be able to take you to the permit office to get it and it’s about $10 USD.

Where to Stay

Upon arrival in Dushanbe, I stayed at Green House Hostel, which is pretty centrally located in the city. It’s right off the main strip and the private rooms were spacious and the perfect place to relax before and after the Pamir Highway (I’ll get to why I returned to Dushanbe in a bit).

The pamir Highway

The Pamir Highway stretches more than 1200 km between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and is the second highest altitude highway in the world. I found a really cheap guide / driver for $1000, which included guesthouses, meals, and the driver himself. I actually found him on another travelers’ blog, who said really great things about him, but unfortunately I don’t feel like I can recommend him. I’m usually pretty easy-going, but he would FLY down the dirt passes and every time I asked if I could stop for a quick photo, he would groan and begrudgingly pull over.

We were trying to pass through to Khorog, which was the real start of the Pamir Highway, but there were protests going on and the police wouldn’t let us pass. We ran into a lovely Polish couple, who arrived at the checkpoint hours later (probably because they weren’t flying down the road hahaha). Their driver was wonderful and suggested I hitch a ride with them and they would do more “local” things while making our way back to Dushanbe. I was bummed I wouldn’t be able to continue with the original plan of finishing the Pamir Highway in Kyrgyzstan, but I was thrilled to experience local villages that I otherwise wouldn’t get to see. The second guide was wonderful so I’m linking his facebook page; I’ve tried sharing his whatsapp but it seems like he changes his number.

From Dushanbe I continued the journey onto Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan!

Best Uzbekistan Itinerary

Uzbekistan has become one of my favorite countries — the history, architecture, the people, and the food are all so amazing. Here are my top tips and best itinerary for Uzbekistan!

Tashkent

I wouldn’t say this is a “must see” city, but if you have time check out the Hazrati Imam complex, Chorsu bazaar, and wander the uniquely different metro stations!

Tip: Train is the most popular and easiest way of getting around the country. I highly recommend booking your tickets in advance online or going to the train station immediately upon arrival. I would have loved to explore Khiva, but unfortunately tickets were all sold out!

Samarkand

So much to see, so little time! The number one attraction is the Registan but make sure you arrive right when they open in the morning to avoid crowds. The light show at night is also unique. Shah-i-Zinda was another favorite!

Bukhara

Bukhara is an ancient city that’s an absolute must-see. My personal favorite spots were the Po-i-Kalyan complex, Chor Minor, and Ulugh Beg Madrasah!

Khiva

Like I mentioned previously, unfortunately I didn’t have time to visit Khiva due to the train tickets being sold out. I would have loved to visit Kalta Minor Minaret had I visited!

Best Monasteries in Armenia

Armenia is known to have beautiful monasteries throughout the country. Here are a few of my favorite monasteries in Armenia!

Khor Virap

On a clear day Khor Virap has an incredible view of the mountains of Turkey in the background.

Noravank

Noravank is nestled in the mountains of Armenia and has a beautiful backdrop. For the best photo, hike up the trails along the side to get a full view of the monastery.

Sevanavank

Sevanavank has an incredible view of the lake on a nice day. Early morning is nice to watch the sunrise and have a cup of coffee from a local shop nearby.

Most Instagrammable Places in Tbilisi

One of my favorite aspects of exploring new places is creating priceless memories to share with friends and family. I call it a “photography guide,” others might call it the “most Instagrammable places,” but here are my favorite spots in Tbilisi!

Orbeliani Baths

The historical outside is amazing to admire, but it’s also great to relax in its sulfur baths! I highly recommend using a wide angle lens since there’s not much space in front.

Kaleidoscope House

The colorful stained glass in this 19th century house is well-preserved, but stop by after 4 PM on a sunny day for the best lighting and colors.

Kalantarov House

Georgian interiors are incredibly stunning! This complex was closed when we went, but someone was kind enough to let us in to photograph the inside so be patient.

Tabor Monastery

This has one of the best views of all of Tbilisi, especially for sunset! You don’t even have to hike all the way up to the monastery for epic views!

The Best Georgia Road Trip

One of the best things to do in Georgia is to explore its quaint little mountain towns. If you’re short on time, Kazbegi is only 3.5 hours from Tbilisi but you can make a full day out of the trip! here are the best stops on a road trip from Tbilisi to Kazbegi!

Mtskheta & Jvari Monastery

Home to one of Georgia’s four UNESCO heritage sites, Mtskheta is a cute little town and you can get a great view from the monastery!

Ananuri Fortress

One of the most popular stops on the Georgian Military Road, check out this beautiful church! Photography tip, the best photo spot is from the nearby bridge on the highway.

Pasanauri

This town is "home of the khinkhali,” Georgia’s famous soup dumplings! Korbuda Restaurant had super tasty khinkali and khachapuri — definitely a must-try!

Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument

Besides the monument itself, this has the best photo spot for a view of the whole valley and mountains!

Sno Village

This small alpine village is home to these carved stone heads scattered around rolling fields. Each one is dedicated to one of Georgia’s beloved poets!

Everything you need to know about Nakhchivan

N A K H C H I V A N

An exclave of Azerbaijan, Nakhchivan is one of the most interesting places I’ve ever visited. When I was trying to find out more info on this region, I couldn’t find too much on the internet so I wanted to share everything I learned about visiting Nakhchivan!

How to get there

You can try booking directly on Azerbaijan Airlines’ website, but unfortunately that didn’t work for me when I tried planning for my trip. Not to worry, however, it’s extremely common to purchase tickets in-person! When you arrive at the international airport, exit the terminal and walk towards the right to the regional terminal. There, go through security and up the stairs to find the booking counter.

I was able to buy my tickets two days in advance for about $150 round trip. Even though it says you can pay with credit card, I wasn’t able to and had to pull out cash. There’s an easy ATM machine downstairs where you can withdraw from.

Where to Stay

Unfortunately there weren’t too many options for hotels, but I stayed at the Tebriz Hotel right in the heart of the city. The people at the front counter were extremely helpful and were able to assist me with a rental car. One person even accompanied me for the day!

Getting Around

To see all the sights, you need to rent a car. You won’t find much online, but when you arrive at the hotel just ask for a rental car and someone can help you. The front desk manager came with me to the location and was able to assist me easily.

What to See

If you’re efficient with your time, you can see everything in a single day. In the heart of the city, I recommend checking out Noah’s Mausoleum and Momine Khatun Mausoleum. Also check out Qarabaghlar Mausoleum, which is considered the most beautiful in all the region. Lastly, I loved the Alinja Castle for sunset!

Best Things to do in Baku, Azerbaijan

I didn’t know what to expect visiting Azerbaijan, but Baku has become one of my favorite cities! It’s incredibly modern, easy to get around, lots of things to do, and amazing food. Here are my favorite things to do in Baku!

Heydar Aliyev Center

Famed for its modern architecture, this building is a must-see in Baku!

Heydar Aliyev Center

Azerbaijan Carpet Museum

I’m normally not a huge fan of museums, but this one was quite interesting to learn about the history of carpet-weaving in this region of the world.

Azerbaijan Carpet Museum

Flame Towers

Head to the park for the best view of all of Baku and, of course, the flame towers!

Flame Towers

Atashgah Zoroastrianism Fire

A fascinating religion from this part of the world, this shrine is a must-visit to understand the origins of the culture.

Best Things to do in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentina was the last country I visited before the pandemic hit; in March 2020 I arrived in Buenos Aires and the border had just shut down and I technically couldn’t enter. I bought a return ticket to the US on the spot and they granted me a 24 hour transit stamp so I decided to explore the city for the day. Even though I had checked off the country, it’s one of those I had felt bad about so I knew I had to return one day to see it properly. With this visit to South America it worked out to have a few days to explore Buenos Aires!

Caminito La Boca

Easily my favorite area of Buenos Aires, Caminito La Boca is a colorful street where the dance Tango originated. Have lunch, wander the alley ways, and enjoy the music!

Everything you need to know about Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, is a must when visiting Brazil or Argentina. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting these stunning waterfalls!

Must Know

The falls flow at the highest rate during the summer from November to February. This means a lot more water, but also a lot of mist which can make it a little difficult to photograph.

Check out both sides of the falls! Even though Brazil offers the best overall view of the falls, there’s a lot more to do on the Argentina side and is much cheaper!

If you want the falls to yourself, consider staying at the Belmond Hotel on the Brazil side — it’s the only hotel in the national park so you can visit the falls after park hours and when it’s closed to the public on Mondays.

How to Get There

You can either fly in on the Argentina side or Brazil side. I was flying from Buenos Aires, so it was much cheaper to fly into the Argentinian side than Brazilian side. Since I was short on time, I wanted to go straight to the Brazilian side of the falls and booked an easy airport transfer that took me straight to the hotel. This company made it so easy!

Best Uruguay Road Trip Itinerary

URUGUAY

When the pandemic hit, I was in Buenos Aires, Argentina and I had plans to take the ferry across to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Unfortunately the borders shut down the day I arrived, so for nearly two years I waited until the country opened up again. That day finally came in the beginning of 2022! Rather than taking the ferry across to Colonia del Sacramento to just check it off, I decided to do a little road trip throughout the country. Here are my top tips for the best road trip itinerary in Uruguay!

Montevideo

Montevideo, the vibrant capital of Uruguay, is a city that effortlessly blends a rich historical heritage with a modern cosmopolitan vibe. Located on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, Montevideo offers visitors a unique combination of stunning architecture, picturesque beaches, and a thriving cultural scene. Strolling through the city's enchanting old town, known as Ciudad Vieja, one can explore colonial-era buildings, bustling markets, and vibrant street art. The city's famous rambla, a picturesque waterfront promenade, invites both locals and tourists to enjoy breathtaking sunsets and leisurely walks along the coast. Montevideo's friendly locals, or "Montevideanos," add to the city's allure, ensuring that visitors feel welcome and at ease exploring the hidden gems of this captivating destination.

I honestly didn’t spend too much time in the capital, but if you’re flying into Montevideo grab a rental car and head towards Colonia del Sacramento!

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Expedia for the best deals on car rentals.

Colonia del Sacramento

Colonia del Sacramento, a charming coastal city in Uruguay, is a captivating destination that effortlessly blends history with natural beauty. Steeped in colonial charm, this UNESCO World Heritage Site showcases cobblestone streets adorned with colorful buildings, giving visitors a glimpse into its rich past. The Barrio Histórico, with its well-preserved colonial architecture, is a highlight, offering a delightful stroll through its narrow lanes and picturesque plazas. Overlooking the Rio de la Plata, the city boasts stunning waterfront views, making it a perfect spot to unwind and appreciate the breathtaking sunsets. With its enchanting atmosphere and historical significance, Colonia del Sacramento is a must-visit for travelers seeking a unique blend of old-world charm and natural splendor.

Colonia del Sacramento, although quite tiny and can see everything in a day or two, was one of my favorite stops on this trip. Most people tend to take the ferry from Buenos Aires and “check off” the country on a single day trip here but there’s so much more to Uruguay! If you have time definitely check out the vineyards of Caramel!

WHERE TO STAY

If you’re looking for something picturesque overlooking the river running between Uruguay and Argentina, I highly recommend the Radisson Colonia del Sacramento Hotel. They even have an infinity pool on the water!

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Booking.com for more hotels in Colonia del Sacramento.

For my budget-friendly friends, check out Viajero Colonia Hostel, located in a great part of town. They also have private rooms available if you’re looking for something a little more private on a budget.

SEARCH | Alternatively, check out Hostelworld.com for more hostels in Colonia del Sacramento.

Punta del Este

Punta del Este, a vibrant coastal city nestled on Uruguay's southeastern coast, is a true gem in South America. With its pristine beaches, upscale resorts, and lively nightlife scene, Punta del Este has emerged as a glamorous playground for the rich and famous. The city's iconic landmarks such as the hand-shaped sculpture emerging from the sand and the famous lighthouse are testaments to its unique charm. Whether you're strolling along the boardwalk, enjoying water sports, or indulging in exquisite seafood, Punta del Este offers an unforgettable blend of relaxation and excitement. It's a destination that effortlessly combines natural beauty with cosmopolitan flair, making it a must-visit location for travelers seeking sun, luxury, and a taste of the good life.

Even though it’s one of the most popular beach resort destinations in all of South America, I found that most of the hotels were a lot older, which I thought was unusual given it’s popularity. Not that it matters, but something to keep in mind if you’re the type to “wing it.” This is a great spot to go surfing, but my favorite attraction was “La Mano,” which I found sunrise was the best time to capture the sunburst between the fingers.

Jose Ignacio

Located on the southern shores of Uruguay, Jose Ignacio is a charming coastal village that encapsulates the essence of relaxation and natural beauty. With its pristine beaches, quaint cobblestone streets, and vibrant local culture, Jose Ignacio attracts travelers seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. This small but captivating town is known for its bohemian atmosphere, attracting a mix of artists, celebrities, and nature enthusiasts. Whether it's enjoying a picturesque sunset over the Atlantic Ocean, strolling through the art galleries, or indulging in fresh seafood at one of the local eateries, Jose Ignacio offers a serene retreat that rejuvenates both mind and soul.

Cabo Polonio

Cabo Polonio, a hidden gem nestled along the rugged coastline of Uruguay, is a place of raw and untouched beauty. With its isolation from modern amenities and limited access, this small fishing village holds a certain mystique that captivates the adventurous traveler. As I stood on the windswept dunes, gazing out at the crashing waves and sheer cliffs, it felt as though time had stood still in this untamed paradise. The absence of electricity and paved roads only added to the charm, allowing me to truly disconnect and immerse myself in the simplicity of life. Cabo Polonio is not just a destination, but an escape to a bygone era, where nature reigns supreme and serenity abounds.

Punta del Diablo

Punta del Diablo, a small fishing village located on the southeastern coast of Uruguay, is a hidden gem with a captivating charm. This laid-back destination boasts breathtaking beaches, rugged landscapes, and a bohemian atmosphere that enchants travelers from all walks of life. With its traditional thatched-roof houses, colorful fishing boats, and pristine golden sands, Punta del Diablo offers visitors an authentic taste of Uruguayan coastal life. Whether you're surfing the Atlantic waves, strolling along the beach, or savoring local seafood delicacies, this idyllic village is a perfect escape for those seeking a peaceful and rejuvenating getaway. Punta del Diablo truly embodies the essence of tranquility, making it a must-visit destination for nature lovers and wanderers in search of serenity.